The classic Bell & Ross Vintage and Geneva models are beautiful, and very well designed. They are only marred by their size - which is about 36-37mm in width. These new watches are 41mm wide - that with their thin bezels wear 'large' on the the wrist. In this post I am showing off images of the new Bell & Ross Vintage Original Black, and the yet to be formally announced dressier version of the watch that might be called the Vintage Geneva. I presume this as it is "vintage" in the sense it is a thematic re-issue of a former Bell & Ross watch, and is thematically similar to the Geneva. This means that Bell & Ross might clarify the name later, but "Vintage Geneva" 123 and 126 wouldn't be a terrible name.UPDATE: The watches I presumed would be called "Geneva" pieces are actually going to be called "Bell & Ross Vintage Officer watches."
Bremont uses a very healthy amount of SuperLumiNova all over the dial. Night viewing is very good, as the luminant is richly applied. I found myself very confident that I could read the time in the dark. The dial also has an inner rotating bezel, that is operated via the lower crown on the right side of the case. Unlike many inner bezels that seem to just freely turn around, the one here has small, but discernible notches for precise use. Again, Bremont has a charming British name for this feature - "Roto-clik." Like all true aviator rotating bezels, this one also turns in both directions (unlike diver bezels that only turn in one direction).Read more ›
The Orbita winder comes with two different pillows. The thicker of the two fit perfectly for my watches with bracelets sized to my wrists. The first watch I put in there was my 48 mm Debaufre Nav B-Uhr LE. It was a perfect fit around the pillow, the pillow slid into the holder and that fit perfectly into the winder.
Apparently, bomb operators liked these little clocks enough, that many of them took them home with them after WWII. For 2010, Bathys of Hawaii has increased the size of the original bomb timer, and has made quite the interesting watch concept out of the theme. You can see the similar user of large, over-lapping subsidiary seconds dial next to the main time.
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Hublot and JCB are intrinsically connected now, and in the future, Hublot will be part of Mr. Biver's legacy. People have speculated whether or not Hublot will retain JCB, or whether he will find new problem brands to fix. JCB states no such intent. Hublot is fun, and he loves where it is going. With the new movements, new models, and new connections the brand will make, he has years left of work to do. JCB also seems to like his life right now. Not far from his home, the manufacture is a calm drive through the country side and he enjoys his calm estate with its manicured lawn, dairy cows, and lovely view of Lake Geneva. JCB boasts that a few hours at home are like a single day's worth of vacation. A state of lifestyle tranquility that most people would (and do) work a lifetime to achieve.Read more ›
Panerai has placed one of its newer in-house made Calibre P.2002/7 manually wound movements in the watch. Although I would have preferred an automatic or at least a power reserve indicator, the movement does have a power reserve length of about 8 days. That is pretty nice, but without a power reserve indicator, you never know how much power you have in it. So you just end up fidgeting with the crown all the time to wind it. Then again, without even a date, if the movement runs out, resetting it isn't a big deal.
Nubeo is a small, independent company that was launched by the effervescent and impassioned Spaniard Ivan (pronounced Ee-Vaughn) Castro in 2003. You can’t talk to him without getting a contact energy high. Perhaps because Castro is a jewelry designer and a naval engineer, he was able to bring a unique interpretation to the watch dial and case. The shape is like nothing I’ve ever seen, resembling that graceful underwater beauty the jellyfish.Read more ›
Then you have the SEA-HUM GMT. Probably my favorite model. It also have an ETA 2836 movement, but a diver's bezel, high visibility orange minute hand, and a thicker case and sapphire crystal that is 4mm wide. Note the cool 5 link metal bracelets that have torx style screws in them. Neat! Here are the specs for the that watch:
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If you are into wood, they you might just be into this watch. I think it is pretty swanky over all and would certainly sport it whenever wood is appropriate. Price is 7.50 via ShopNBC.com.
H. Moser & Cie is perhaps a brand you haven't heard of before. They are a smaller company, but I have been noticing more and more advertising from them - so they are getting orders or funding from somewhere. Actually, I understand that H. Moser is one of the people that helped make IWC what it is. The connection between IWC and Moser isn't exactly great these days as I understand it. It is true that as a smaller brand with a very complex watch - quality control issues are going to be of concern. At the same time, given the popularity of the piece, combined with the fact that it has been around for a few years, it is likely that H. Moser & Cie has been able to work some of the kinks out of the mechanism. The movement is all in-house made.
The DI 300 uses a Swiss ETA 2836-2 automatic movement with a day/date complication. I experienced it keeping good time, and I really liked the smooth integrations of the day and date indicator indicators. The sweep seconds hands is fashionable with a needle style and in yellow.Read more ›
Here we also see the timepiece worn by likely future US Supreme Court Justice Elena Kagan. Nominated by Obama, I believe she is currently going through the trials of being approved. I haven't really kept up to date on the progress of her approval, but I am interested in her watch. While no Supreme Court Justice that I can remember is know for being particularly lavish with their watches, I have a feeling that at least a few of them have some fancy watches underneath their robes. Us lawyers have a penchant for loving fine timepieces. As an educator, Kagan has a standard "nice watch." She is seen wearing her less-than-uncommon gold plated ladies Movado Museum piece on a leather strap. While the exact model number is going to be tough to detect as Movado frequently changes these watches even though they often look almost the same, we know the basic model. Click here for a listing on Amazon.com of this style Movado Museum watch for women. So what does a watch like this say about Elena? Well not too much actually. Worn by legions of people all over the world, this is sort of a nice watch for people who don't know better. The prudent Kagan perhaps isn't into the idea of luxury watches in her life. Either she has rejected the concept, or just hasn't discovered fine timepieces yet. The Movado Museum face is a watch that blends in better than a basic Seiko. People know it, but they are so common, it is hard to apply a character trait to anyone who might wear them. This is Movado's bread and butter, and likely a stepping stone timepiece to nicer things. At the same time, Kagan put the piece on for a formal photo shoot. She doesn't want attention called to her wrist, so wearing it might have been purely intentional.Read more ›
The mixture of white, green, black, and red on the dial is interesting. Red is used for the GMT hand, as well as the 24 hour scale. Although the 24 hour scale is split into red and white areas - for night and day times. A large RAID insignia logo is placed in all black at 6 o'clock on the watch. I wonder if any RAID members will be wearing this watch.
The piece is a beauty. Lovely in the tradition of the Type XX, it looks both retro and somehow modern at the same time. The case is medium sized at 39mm wide in a high polished steel, win that great iconic style with the coined (fluted) edge. The rotating bezel has raised relief numerals and markers with black lacquer set in the between them. While the case size is smaller than today's modern Type XXI watches (for example), it is a bit larger than the original Ref. 3800 watches from the 1960s.
Some people will love the beauty and imagination of the watch. Others will consider the design perhaps a bit frightening. Large creature like bulging eyes coming out of a mechanical metal instrument in luxury materials. It is a weird watch of course - probably the weirdest looking piece to come from MB&F yet, and that is actually saying a lot.Read more ›